Power Drill / Driver • HSS 3.5mm Ø Drill Bit • 6.5mm Ø Masonary Drill • Mallet Silicone Gun • Hack Saw • Stanley Knife • ‘Star’ Driver Bit • 40mm Hole Saw
STEP 1 - WALLPLATE
Unpack all components and familiarise yourself with each profile then select the wallplate to be fixed first. See chart below for fixing height dimension of wallplate.
Mark the wall with a fixing line as determined from chart.
Drill the wallplate on the location line with an 8mm HSS drill bit at approximately 800mm spacings.
Hold up wall plate on to wall at the correct height, check level and drill through the previously made holes into masonry with a 6.5mm masonry drill bit (fig.1). Secure using masonry fixing screws directly into masonry using a ‘star’ screwing bit on power driver. The wall plate should now be securely fixed and level in position.
WALLPLATE FIXING HEIGHT
|Above dimensions are for standard 2.25m long posts. For 3m posts – add 750mm to above dimensions|
STEP 2 - EAVESBEAM GUTTER /POSTS
Decide where you want the water to discharge down one (or more) of the posts and drill a 40mm diameter hole in the bottom of the eavesbeam gutter (fig.3). Slide in gutter guard over hole to prevent leaves clogging in pipe.
Locate square posts into eavesbeam gutter and square up (fig.2). Pilot drill using 3.5mm HSS, drill and fix with self tapping screws provided, two into each side through flange. Locate post fixing brackets into the bottom of the posts, but do not fix at this stage. Once you have fixed one post at each end of eavesbeam gutter to create a ‘goalpost’, lift upright into the approximate position where they are to be fixed (fig 4).
Take the two edge bars and fix onto wallplate by pilot drilling and screwing with self tapping screws, then fix onto the eavesbeam gutter. Check both ‘diagonal’ measurements from edge of wallplate to opposite diagonal edge of eavesbeam gutter to ensure structure is ‘square’. This is very important.
STEP 3 - PANELS PREPARATION
Prepare all polycarbonate panels by ‘notching’ the edge profile on one end only approximately 20mm and remove ‘cutout’ (fig. 5). After removing all protective films and end tape from the polycarbonate panels, apply grey breather tape both ends of panels and around corners by about 15mm. Where the panels are ‘notched’ at one end, this is the gutter end where the PVC end closure is fitted Apply silicone inside both flanges of PVC end closures and locate onto panel evenly. (fig. 6) Apply silicone into the edge of the end closure where the gap is, to prevent water ingress at the edge.
STEP 4 - GLAZING BARS /PANEL INSTALLATION
Install the first panel into one of the edge bars by locating the panel edge profile into the bar just before it enters the wallplate. Knock in only about 100mm engagement into the bar. Then at the gutter end, tap up the panel so that the panel goes right up into the wall plate aperture until it stops at the back. Using a mallet, tap in the remainder of the edge profile of the panel into the glazing bar until it is clipped in along the full length (fig. 7).
Now fit the first glazing bar by inserting into the wallplate at an angle, engage the edge profile of the panel and rotate upright so that the panel clips into the bar(fig. 8). Push right up into wallplate and onto eavesbeam gutter. Clip in the remainder of the panel along the length of the glazing bar using a mallet.
Continue the same procedure until all panels and bars are installed along the full length of the canopy. When the final panel is installed, check diagonal measurements again as previously done.
STEP 5 - FIXING POSTS
Check posts for vertical level and then drill and fix the base fixing brackets into the ground, using 6.5mm Ø masonary drill and masonary fixings supplied (fig. 9). Install the middle post in position and fix (fig.10). (only two posts with canopies 3m and less).NOTE: It is the responsibility of the installer to fix the post down onto an adequate substrate e.g. concrete pad.
Check level of eavesbeam gutter and lift posts up base fixing bracket if required for levelling. Using 3.5mm HSS drill bit, drill two holes each side at the bottom of posts into base fixing bracket, screw in the self tapping screws to secure. Apply silicone seal around the top of the post where it joins the underside on posts containing drain holes.
STEP 6 - SECURING GLAZING BARS
At the wallplate underside, using 3.5mm HSS, drill through wallplate flange into bottom of glazing bars (2 per bar end). Screw in self tapping screws to secure. The same procedure should be done at the eavesbeam gutter end (2 per bar end). All glazing bars are now secure.
STEP 7 - END PLATE FIXING
The wallplate has two end plates for finishing off the installation. Line up holes on the end plate with screwports in the wallplate. Screw in the top hole first. The bottom hole may need a pilot hole drilling to reach the scewport. Screw in the bottom hole with self tapping screw.
The eavesbeam gutter has two end plates, line up holes and screw in self tapping screws. Using silicone sealant, seal inside the gutter joint between the aluminium and PVC to prevent leaks.
Finally, install fillets into wallplate between glazing bars, underneath panel to cover wall plate fixings and pack the panel up to wallplate top flashing.
The installation is now complete.
Universal gutter - wall plate system makes this roof truly flexible you can use it just about every where.
Integral Box Gutter
Wall Plate Gutter
Back to back wall plate and gutters form perfect ridges and valleys.
Neat Professional High Quality Simple To Install.